Stokehouse is one of those places where we've heard about but never quite found. And it is hard to find (sort of) , there's no parking on site so make sure to park at South Bank Parklands and take a short walk. First I was resentful of that fact but once you walk in to the restaurant and see the full frontage of river and city views--all's forgiven.
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| the view from the table |
At first glance the menu appears your very run of the mill 'contemporary Australian' --I use this term loosely as I don't even really know what that implies. It's disappointing the specials board was set down by a waitress who really did not seem too keen to explain it. The board was set down against the glass window and it was difficult to see the last 2 dishes on it was blocked by the table--would have been thoughtful to maybe hold it for us while we perused? Especially since we were only 1 of 2 tables at the time.
Oysters were delicious--sweet, plump and tasting very fresh. The dressing --shallot, chives and vinigarette? (weren't sure as it wasn't explained to us) also went well but use sparingly.
The entrees we tried of the wagyu tartare and kingfish crudo was generous in size but but 2 things stuck in my mind:
1) The wagyu tartare came out looking like bibimbap with no rice and so close was the resemblance it's hard to stop thinking and expecting it to taste like it.
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| Wagyu tartare--or is it bibimbap? |
2) There's no doubt on the quality of the ingredients yet there seems to be so much effort to pile things on that block the original flavour of the kingfish and beef. For example, the dressing not he kingfish while pleasant completely over rode any sweetness of the fish. The undressed alfalfa sprouts didn't do the beef any favours at all
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| Kingfish Crudo |
Mains were once again substantial and demonstrate restrained treatment of the ingredients with not too much fussing around. Standout was my grunter fish with its crispy skin and moist, flaky meat --it's proof that cook something well and it trumps any fancy foam.
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| Grunter with clams and mussels |
While substantial and full of flavour, the brisket didn't really stand out --one of those 'nice ' but no surprises there dishes which you can locate at any bistro around town.
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| Brisket |
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| A really nice baked potato |
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| Endive and cucumber salad . PS cucumber all down the bottom |
Being our anniversary we have to go all out and go for the dessert. Couldn't go past the apple cannelloni and The Bombe on the menu. Who doesn't love a Bomba Alaska?
Well the Bombe didn't really go off-- while the parfait was deliciously smooth and the meringue fluffy, the strawberry coulis was disappointing and just reminiscent of the syrupy stuff you find at functions. The whole dessert was too sweet .
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| Apple cannelloni |
The apple cannelloni though sweet on it's own when combined with all the crumbs and bits and pieces on the plate the whole thing made sense. The candied walnuts were fantastic--could easily eat a whole packet on its own.
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| Not quite The Bombe |
Stokehouse presents honest dishes undisguised by foams, gelatines, gels and the likes. Yet when there's simplicity there's very little room to hide even the smallest flaws. It's tantalisingly close to being exceptional.
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